Midland’s Chainstitch’N’Rhinestone Cowboys

When Midland walks in a room, a bar, through a kitchen to the stage, down the street, people stop.

Faded pink, electric blue, cactus green, lemon yellow, scarlet red – they fear no color and embrace extreme cuts. Whether echoing the “Urban Cowboy” off-duty rig worker/ranch aesthetic, or echoing the Flying Burrito Brothers’ Gilded Palace of Sin matador-cut spangled suits, they’ve achieved a new haute cowture. “We’re ostentatious, kind of flamboyant people,” Duddy says. “We’re really three rock ‘n’ roll peacocks.”

Holly George Warren, historian, former Rolling Stone Press editor and acclaimed author of “How The West Was Worn,” “Public Cowboy No. 1” and the Carnegie Medal listed “Janis,” recognizes the connections made – in some cases for the first time.

“Those suits on the ‘Make A Little’ video are a real nod back to the Flying Burrito Brothers with the colors and short jackets, rhinestones and over-the-top embroidery. Since Midland’s members are from the West, where Nudie suits first became popular, it’s also a nod to their geographic background.”

For Carson, who owned a vintage store, clothing is an extension of their vision. “We like to find weird vintage stuff. There’s a tongue in cheekiness and a seriousness to it.”

What’s most intriguing about their look – as at home in patched-together denim OR custom chainstitch – is how they seamlessly blend high/low with different eras. Sometimes ‘70s Steve McQueen or Burt Reynolds cool; other times, it’s blinded by rhinestones.

George Warren appreciates the evolution beyond irony to their style hybrid. “When ‘Urban Cowboy’ hit in 1980, some custom Western tailors were still working and they tried to jump in, but the UC fans and musicians didn’t want to spend the money on custom fancy suits, so mass market, cheap cowboy clothes became the Urban Cowboy norm. 

“Rodeo Ben of Philadelphia – a pioneer making these clothes before Nudie’s even opened – over-extended  and went out of business because of “Urban Cowboy.”

“I’d say this is a first – combining an ‘Urban Cowboy’ sound with a classic honky tonk look. Notably Dwight Yoakam, who brought back the custom classic Nudie suit in the middle-’80s, was making a statement against the ‘Urban Cowboy’ cookie-cutter sound and style. But you can hear how vocally Dwight influenced Midland.”

Clothes don’t make the man, or the music. But for Midland, it sets the stage. Beyond the swagger and theatrics, there’s a strong waft of Rico Suave to everything they put on. 

Duddy doesn’t deny it. “Sex appeal is part of music. Has been since Mozart … But the sex appeal thing is funny, because the more you try, the worse it looks. Robert Plant. Prince. Waylon Jennings. Those guys took a fuck-off attitude that made them appealing – never mind Waylon was 50 pounds overweight, Prince had a sad mustache and Plant wore women’s blouses! You work with what you got, man!”